Südgeorgien
Glorious sun and a gentle roll was what we woke to this morning onboard the Ocean Victory, on this our first day of the crossing from Antarctica to South Georgia. Snowy Albatross and Cape Petrels cruised effortlessly behind the ship reminding us that we are in their domain here in the Scotia Sea.
The real highlight on our second day en route to South Georgia came in the afternoon, as we approached the ocean giant, A23a. The planet’s largest iceberg, this colossus has been on the move since 1986, when it first broke off the Ronne-Filchner ice shelf at the base of the Weddell Sea. Now, decades later, it has escaped the massive gyre of the Weddell Sea, and tracked its way north as far as South Georgia.
On our way towards A23a, we could see plenty of icy debris in the water, plus many tabular bergs broken off from the main berg. It was a fantastic chance to snap a few photos on Deck 8, although we felt as though we were back in Antarctica with temperatures plunging near the iceberg. The edge of the berg was dotted with caves and tunnels, and we could hear the roaring thunder of the ocean waves rolling through them.
It took most of the afternoon to navigate our way around A23a, through the fog created by the ice itself. We finished the day in high spirits, looking forward to our first excursions on South Georgia.
Iceberg A23a
The next day, the program had to be adjusted due to rough seas. In the morning, we landed in the sheltered bay of Gold Harbour. We enjoyed the magnificent scenery and the large number of animals, king penguins, gentoo penguins and fur seals.
Gold Harbour
Blondie
In the afternoon we took a Zodiac trip in the bay of Godthul.
Eselspinguine
Sturmvögel
Godthul
After meeting South Georgia’s famous King Penguins at Gold harbour yesterday, today was our chance to spend time with its cuter residents – fur seal pups! Dawn broke at Ocean Harbour, where we had beautiful sunshine for a zodiac exploration of the bay. Along the way we watched hundreds of seal pups playing in the shallows, tumbling around one another as they learn the art of swimming. Many of them were curious, coming up to the zodiacs for a quick glance at this strange visitor to their home waters.
At Ocean harbour we also spotted the remains of a substantial whaling operation run through the 1910s. The remains of the old coal jetty loom on the Northern shore of the bay, and to the South the incredible wreck of the *Bayard* – a three-masted barque grounded on the coast. The *Bayard*, built in 1864, was being used to supply the station with coal, when in 1911 she broke free of the pier and lodged herself for the next hundred years on the opposite shore. Now nature has truly reclaimed the ship, with a colony of blue eyed shags making their nests amongst the tussock that sprouts from the wooden decks. Terns sit atop the bowsprit and seals play in the kelp around the vessel. It feels somehow right that the wildlife here has reclaimed this relic of whaling history.
Ocean Harbour 
Sturmvogel
For our afternoon excursion we sailed around to land at Stromness – another whaling station
established in 1907. For us, having crossed the Southern Ocean from Elephant Island, it was perhaps most poignant as the end-point to Shackleton’s phenomenal journey in search of rescue for his stranded men. Here, Shackleton, Crean and Worsley descended the waterfall at the back of the valley, called in by the station’s whistle, as putting an end to their truly epic crossing of South Georgia’s interior. They followed the route along the valley floor to the whaling station and a return to civilisation. Walking in their footsteps today we were kept company by many more excitable fur seal pups, with the rusting buildings of the station as our backdrop.
Stromness 
Stromness 
We arrived in Grytviken, the most famous of South Georgia’s former whaling stations, nestled
among the mountains and rich in history. This is not just a place of industry and abandonment —it is a site of exploration, endurance, and remembrance, most notably as the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton.
Our first stop was the cemetery, where we paid our respects at Shackleton’s grave. As tradition
dictates, we raised a glass—whisky for some, juice for others—and toasted ‘The Boss’, honoring the legendary explorer whose leadership and resilience have inspired generations.
From there, we moved into the remnants of the whaling station, where rusting machinery and
weathered buildings stood as a testament to the industry that once defined this place. A guided tour took us through the history of Grytviken, the church, and the post office, where many of us took the opportunity to send a postcard to loved ones—a rare and special way to mark our time in such a remote location. The South Georgia Museum provided further insight into the island’s natural and human history.
Grytviken
Mario, der Expeditionsleiter
Grab von Ernest Shackleton
Grytviken, alte Walfangstation 
Walfangboot
Das südlichste Postamt der Welt
Museum
Walknochensäge
A Wildlife Spectacle Like No Other
We landed on the beach at St. Andrews Bay, and the sight before us left everyone speechless. The shore was alive with wildlife—hundreds of fur seal pups (Arctocephalus gazella) played in the surf and tussock grass, while a group of southern elephant seals (Mirounga leonina) lay sprawled on the sand, their massive bodies heaving with each breath.
Then, just beyond a small river, we reached the largest king penguin colony in the world—a
staggering 300,000 penguins, stretching as far as the eye could see. The sheer scale, movement, and sound of the colony was almost overwhelming, a true feast for the senses. Adult penguins waddled in and out of the surf, greeting their mates, while endless rows of brown-feathered chicks huddled together, waiting for a meal.
St. Andrews Bay 
Königspinguine, im Hintergrund Seeelefanten
Seeelefant
The next day began with strong winds sweeping across Fortuna Bay, a place steeped in history and wildlife. Despite the challenging conditions, our guides, clad in waders, greeted us as we landed by Zodiac on the beach, where a significant swell made for an adventurous arrival.
The shore and waters were teeming with fur seal pups their curious eyes watching as we stepped onto land. Some played in the surf, darting through the waves with impressive agility, while others rested among the tussock grass, occasionally testing their tiny yet sharp teeth on passing boots.
From the beach, we made our way inland toward one of South Georgia’s great spectacles—a king penguin colony spread across the landscape. The sight and sounds of thousands of adult penguins, interspersed with large, brown, fluffy chicks, were mesmerizing. This was our first close encounter with the young king penguins, standing patiently as they waited for their parents to return with food. Their thick down gave them a comically oversized appearance, a stark contrast to the sleek and elegant adults surrounding them.
Fortuna Bay
In the afternoon, we embarked on a Zodiac cruise through Hercules Bay, a dramatic, secluded cove surrounded by steep cliffs and dense kelp beds swaying with the currents. Here, we had a thrilling first sighting—macaroni penguins ! These charismatic birds, with their striking yellow crests, were seen clambering up the rocky slopes to their nesting sites, using their strong beaks and claws to navigate the near-vertical terrain. Watching them in their rugged habitat, battling the elements, made us appreciate their resilience even more.
As we navigated the bay, the towering cliffs echoed with the calls of seabirds, and the rich waters below were alive with marine life. The interplay between the land, sea, and wildlife in this remote corner of the world left a lasting impression.
This marked the final day of our South Georgia expedition. As we set course for the Falkland Islands, we bid farewell to this extraordinary land of glaciers, wildlife, and history, carrying with us memories of its untamed beauty.
Hercules Bay
Goldschopfpinguine 
Goldschopfpinguine 
Hercules Bay
During our sailing to Falklands with adverse maritime conditions and significant wave heights we passed the Shag Rocks. The Shag Rocks are an archipelago in the South Atlantic. They lie approximately 250 km west of South Georgia and about 1,000 km east of the Falkland Islands. They cover an area of approximately 0.2 km². The group consists of six rocky islands.
Shag Rocks 